When
I walked the Chemin du Puy (Via Podiensis), many people asked me to compare the
two routes. I found this article, http://www.thesenioradventurer.com/?p=1455, which I thought
stated just about everything I felt, so I copied it and then edited it to
reflect my experience. Thanks Mr. Considine!
1.
More Natural: The Le Puy route has less road walking. Aside
from paved sections as you enter and exit the villages, much of the walking is
on foot paths or tractor trails. The terrain is hillier, especially on the
forested stages between Le Puy and Conques. The mountains give way to rolling
hills filled with brilliantly blooming sunflower fields. Next, there is a short
stretch through a relatively flat region with corn fields reminiscent of Iowa.
Finally, rolling green foothills lead to the climb over the Pyrenees into
Spain.
2.
Quieter: You will often be alone on the trails. If you stop
and sit down, it could take up to 10 minutes for other walkers to pass by. The number of walkers
leaving Le Puy-en-Velay maxes out at 100/day during high season compared to the
several hundred who begin in St. Jean Pied-de-Port each day. (Sept 3-4, 2016
set a record of over 700!)
3.
More Intimate: Since the Chemin
du Puy has a significantly reduced number of walkers, it makes it easier to get
to know just about everybody walking in a similar time frame. It is typical to
be on a first name basis with most of the people in the gite (albergue).
4.
Mostly French Walkers: At least 75% of walkers you meet are French and
perhaps 10% German. The rest are a mix, mostly Europeans and Australians.
American and Canadians are few and far between.
5.
French Language: As most of the walkers
are French and you are staying in French gites, it is good to know a little
French. However, it is the Chemin and people could not be friendlier. Many
French are compassionate and kind, patiently translating and helping with
reservations. Walking through the rural parts of the Chemin du Puy is perhaps
the best way to experience France.
6.
Food: The food on the Camino Frances in Spain ranges from good to so-so. On the Chemin du Puy, it is a highlight. Many of the gites include 3, 4, or even 5 course meals for
12€-15€. The food is almost always fresh, grown locally with regional
specialties. Usually, the meal begins with soup, followed by a main course of
meat and vegetables, salad, a cheese plate and ending with a light dessert. Almost
always, carafes of local red wine flow throughout the meal. Before the meal, an
aperitif may be served.
7.
French Culture: France is a Catholic
country with a rich history of saints, churches and cathedrals, most of which
are open along the way. The French are balanced, adverse to extremes and value
freedom in every way. They are genuinely interested when they ask how you are
doing.
8.
Less Infrastructure: The Chemin du Puy is
more challenging from an infrastructure perspective. You are more likely to be
required to walk a bit farther each day than you may want compared to walking
the Camino Frances. Carrying a picnic lunch is sometimes a good idea. Cafés are
often few and far between. This is less of an issue for those who can
easily walk 30+k per day. That said, the Chemin de Le Puy is easily managed
with a bit of planning. There are well-organized baggage transportation
companies which charge 7-8€ /day.
9.
Less competitive: Walkers on the Le Puy
route seem to be more relaxed about distances. They start later each morning
(no rush to get out of the gite) and take long, regular breaks. This may be
because the majority of walkers have their accommodations reserved but it is also
the nature of the French. They love to enjoy life… Vive la joie de vivre!
